The Quiet Workshop Autumn Newsletter

The Quiet Workshop Autumn Newsletter

A handcrafted wooden chair with a woven seat and a simple, elegant design, displayed on a wooden workbench.

We’ve had a lovely year of courses and shows, meeting new people and sending them home happy, well-fed and with a chair they’re proud of.

It’s been busy with new opportunities: we’ve taught Danish cord weaving at the Festival of Upholstery, a seat weaving class at the St.Alban’s Upholstery School and have launched workbench plans in our online shop.

Thank you so much to everyone who has come on a course, at our workshops and elsewhere. Thanks also to those who have supported us through buying products in our new shop.

Our courses start again in March but over the winter we’ve got plenty to keep us occupied: a new chair design that will be offered as a course, production of our hard finishing wax and vice screws and the launch of custom made workbenches, available from our online store. We’ll have more details of all of these in the new year.

Course Dates 2026

We’ve published the dates for our courses for 2026 – they’re all available on our website. They link through to Craft Courses for booking.

So that we don’t disappoint anyone we always run courses that have bookings; if just one person books on a particular date then that course will run. Whilst this makes no financial sense whatsoever we feel that if people make plans in advance they should be confident that they’re not going to be disappointed.

That said, we’ve scheduled over 30 courses for next season and sometimes we cancel courses that don’t have bookings a couple of weeks beforehand if they’re close to another date that’s fully booked.

If you’d like a course for a small group and our dates don’t suit you please get in touch. If we haven’t had a booking at a time that does suit you we’re always happy to move things around.

Shows – 2026

We’ve really enjoyed the shows this year and though they take out weekends during the season we find them a lovely way to meet people who are interested in our craft.

Some of these dates are provisional because not all the shows we attend have confirmed dates yet. We’ll update them on the website if they change.

If you think there’s a craft show within an hour’s drive of Cambridge that we should attend please drop us a line. We’re always grateful for new opportunities.

Workbench plans – available now.

Thanks to everyone who has downloaded or bought paper copies of our workbench plans. We’ve had some really useful feedback on these and we are looking forward to seeing some of the finished benches.

3D model of a woodworking bench featuring a sturdy structure, a slatted lower shelf, and a crank mechanism for clamping workpieces.

They’re available in six different sizes: three in metric, three in imperial. But they’re not just a straight conversion. We’ve designed the imperial and metric benches around the materials most commonly available in different regions and have worked out sensible sizes so that you don’t end up with something silly like a bench top that’s six feet six and forty seven sixty-fourths of an inch!

  • 1m/3.5′ – ideal for chairmaking, small and easy to store but rock solid
  • 1.5m/5′ – a good sized joinery bench but every piece is manageable when setting up or moving it around
  • 2m/7′ – a bench big enough for any furniture project but with a top that’s still moveable by a normal human being

These benches have been designed with five principles in mind:

  • Built from easily available materials with basic woodworking tools
  • Only very basic joinery skills required
  • Easy and quick to set up
  • Every component must be light enough to move easily around your workspace
  • Rock solid; the fact that it packs down quickly mustn’t make it flimsy in use

The plans include complete cutting lists for all pieces, a suggested tool list and instructions. Eventually there will be YouTube videos. We’ve finished the introductory video and working on the next 4!

Workbench vice screws

A collection of wooden parts for a workbench vice, including a threaded screw, blocks, a threaded rod, and several small components, placed on a wooden work surface.

To help you along with your workbench build we’ve started selling the vice screws that we use on our benches. You can use a metal vice attached to the top or you can get a wooden vice screw from us.


St.Alban’s Upholstery School & Studio

A woven Danish cord seat on a wooden chair with a rustic finish, placed in a workshop environment with tables and materials in the background.

In September we taught a one day workshop in seat weaving with Danish cord and seagrass at the wonderful St.Albans Upholstery School. Participants brought their own chairs that needed a new seat and we worked out a solution for each chair. At the end of the day 8 new seat weavers went home with a completed chair.

It was a really challenging and worthwhile day. Usually we’re teaching people to weave the same seat with only a slight variation in pattern so seeing 8 different designs go home at the end of the day was very satisfying.

Nothing says you’ve done a good job like being invited back and we’re delighted to be delivering another course in January. Keep an eye on their website for details.

If you don’t know St.Alban’s Upholstery School and Studio I hesitate to point you towards their website. 5 minutes of looking at their gallery can prompt either a career change or radical rethink of your interior designs – you have been warned!


A splash of colour

An array of dyed Danish cord in various colors, neatly arranged on cardboard tags on a light wooden surface.

Our amazingly talented friend Jacqui Symons at Slow Lane Studio sent us some dyed Danish cord earlier in the year. We’ve been itching to weave it into a seat and finally found the time and the right chair.

A handcrafted armchair featuring a woven seat made of natural Danish cord, with a light wood frame and vertical slats on the backrest.

This arm chair uses cord dyed with Brazilwood. The photos don’t really do it justice. It’s an incredibly rich and deep colour and gives the light ash and muted Danish cord chair a new dimension.

A book titled 'From Plant to Print' by Jacqui Symons, displayed on a wooden surface, featuring images of natural dyes and pigments for printmaking.

We’ve got several more samples to try before we work out what to do next. It’s unlikely that it will feature on a course soon because we need to test it for colour transfer (sitting on it in light coloured trousers!) before we can be sure it’s a complete success. But for the time being we’re delighted!

Jacqui published a book recently on natural dyes and pigments. It’s the culmination of years of testing and researching and is beautifully illustrated. Available direct from her website.


Hard wax

A hand pressing a corded tool into a tin of finishing wax, with a wooden surface in the background.

On every course we get asked about finishes: oil or varnish, shellac or wax? We’re always very hesitant to recommend finishes to course participants because we’ve been so unhappy with what’s available. Ideally a finish should be easy to apply, hard-wearing, non-colouring and easy to repair if it gets damaged.

This is called a unicorn finish.

We’ve used lots of different finishes over the years and have had acceptable results from shellac and Osmo Polyx Raw, mixed results from oils and varnishes and disappointing results from waxes.

As a generalisation the longer a finish lasts the harder or more time-consuming it is to apply. Lots of oils and varnishes give too much orange or yellow colour to the wood. Soft waxes are easy to apply but give little long-term protection to the wood.

So several years ago we started experimenting with our own wax recipe. Most furniture waxes are soft and contain beeswax or a soft microcrystalline wax. Most use a petroleum based solvent. Most are easy to apply but offer very little longevity or protection.

But there is an alternative. Automotive and marine wax manufacturers use Carnauba wax, a natural, plant-based wax that has a higher melting point than beeswax but is much harder and longer lasting. It’s what professional ‘detailers’ use to make supercars look shiny.

We started experimenting with a blend of Carnauba wax, beeswax and citrus oil to create a wax that is definitely a little bit harder to apply than traditional soft waxes but offers much better protection and longevity.

We’ve been using it on all of our workshop and household furniture for several years and have been tweaking the formula each time. Now we’re happy with the results.

It’s applied with either a burnisher or a grey pad, left for a few minutes and then buffed off.

A tin of homemade hard finishing wax with a partially open lid, placed on a wooden surface alongside a cloth and a roll of twine.

We use it on its own or over other finishes if required. It gives a soft, subtle sheen and leaves the wood feeling smooth and protected.

The huge advantage of a finish like this is that it can be applied in one coat and the piece of furniture can be handled straight away. You don’t need to leave it to dry overnight and if it starts to wear you can easily top it up without having to sand it back.

We’ve got to work out the packaging details and then we’ll be putting it up on website: look for it in the new year.


As always, if you’re interested in coming on a course and you want to find out more please give us a ring (07778 397328) or drop us an email. You can book all of our courses through the links on our website. If our dates aren’t perfect for you or you want to book for a group give us a call; we can usually work something out. Don’t forget course fees include all materials, lunch and refreshments each day.

Enjoy your time in the workshop.

StJohn & Bryony

Two individuals seated in a workshop, smiling at the camera. One wears a red hoodie and the other a beige sweater. In the background, various wooden chairs and a small table are visible.
The Quiet Workshop Newsletter: Workbench Plans!

The Quiet Workshop Newsletter: Workbench Plans!

Technical drawing of a workbench design featuring labeled components and measurements.

They’re here: Workbench plans!

By popular request (no really!) we’re delighted to announce the publication of our workbench plans.

3D model of a workbench with a sturdy design, featuring a flat surface and two vices on each side.

We’ve drawn plans to build our rock solid, take-apart bench in 1m, 1.5m, 2m, 3 1/2′, 5′ and 7′ lengths with a choice of two different vices. You have the choice of metric or imperial measurements. They’re not just conversions of the measurements we usually work in, they’re designed from the ground up in each system. They’re available in our new shop here.

Each set of plans includes 6 A1 drawings, an A4 drawing and 11 pages of instructions. We’re now working on a series of videos for YouTube to support builders with the plans. The plans are currently available for download. Paper plans will be available very soon.

From the introduction to the instructions:

“Our garage used to be a coffin makers’ workshop; in it there is a 10’ bench that is older than any living woodworker. It is built from whatever material didn’t make the grade for coffins and is hammered together with the random selection of nails they had to hand.

Despite the apparent lack of joinery, low grade materials and optimistic approach to bracing it survived life in a busy professional workshop.

Your bench will be better. It will have better joinery, more carefully selected materials and a better design. And you will put more time and thought into building it. So there’s plenty of room for error. When building it live by the phrase “It’s a workbench, not a piano.” When you’ve finished it don’t point out the errors to friends and family and soon you’ll forget where they are. If you get tear-out when you plane it: don’t worry. If you pull out a lump as you drill a through-tenon: never mind. These scars will blend with the clamp marks, the saw cuts and the glue spots that will appear the moment you start using it. Remember: “It’s a workbench, not a piano.”

The design of this bench has been evolving for many years. We run chairmaking workshops and so have built a lot of benches. With each generation they get a little bit better and this is the result.

These benches are designed for woodworkers who have a small amount of space and time to practice their craft. Space that is probably shared with bicycles, a lawn mower and a jet wash. They need a rock solid platform for planing, sawing and chiselling but have to pack it up and share it with the rest of their lives.”


Don’t forget we’re taking part in Cambridge Open Studios this month so if you want to come and have a look round we’re here between 10am and 5pm on the 12th&13th and 26th&27th July.

As always, if you’re interested in coming on a course and you want to find out more please give us a ring (07778 397328) or drop us an email. You can book all of our courses through the links on our website. If our dates aren’t perfect for you or you want to book for a group give us a call; we can usually work something out.

Enjoy your time in the workshop.

StJohn & Bryony

Two people sitting on a workbench surrounded by woodworking tools, with plans displayed in the background.
The Quiet Workshop Summer Newsletter

The Quiet Workshop Summer Newsletter

Coming soon: Workbench plans!

On every course and at every show we are asked about our workbenches. We’ve put a lot of thought and a lot of work into them over more than 10 years. Our most recent bench is at least the eighth iteration of a design that is always almost perfect! Just one more tweak…

So it’s time to stop procrastinating and publish the plans. We’re making these available in six different sizes: three in metric, three in imperial, all in the same set of plans. But they’re not just a straight conversion. We’ve designed the imperial and metric benches around the materials most commonly available in different regions and have worked out sensible sizes so that you don’t end up with something silly like a bench top that’s six feet six and forty seven sixty-fourths of an inch!

  • 1m/3.5′ – ideal for chairmaking, small and easy to store but rock solid
  • 1.5m/5′ – a good sized joinery bench but every piece is manageable when setting up or moving it around
  • 2m/7′ – a bench big enough for any furniture project but with a top that’s still moveable by a normal human being

These benches have been designed with five principles in mind:

  • Built from easily available materials with basic woodworking tools
  • Only very basic joinery skills required
  • Easy and quick to set up
  • Every component must be light enough to move easily around your workspace
  • Rock solid; the fact that it packs down quickly mustn’t make it flimsy in use

The plans will include complete cutting lists for all pieces, a suggested tool list and instructions. Eventually there will be YouTube videos but don’t hold your breath…

We’re setting up a shop page on our website: thequietworkshop.com and when that’s live we’ll send a very short newsletter round. Probably the end of June.

If you haven’t been on one of our courses yet but would like to see one in action then come along to…


Cambridge Open Studios

Every July, for the last 51 years, artists and craftspeople in and around Cambridge throw open their doors and invite you into their studios. It’s an incredible celebration of the creativity of the people in the area. 223 studios and 12 larger venues will be open over the four weekends of July. We’ll be taking part on the 1st, 2nd and 4th weekends: 5-6th, 12-13th & 26-27th.

We’re on page 62 of the guide. We’re listed as number 144 under my name: StJohn Starkie. The number has nothing to do with our workshop address which is 41 High Street, Great Wilbraham! We look forward to seeing you in July.


Shows this year

We had a lovely time at Living Crafts Fair at Hatfield House. If you haven’t been before we thoroughly recommend it; we’ll definitely be back next year. If you missed us there you can catch us at one of the following:

If you think there’s a craft show within an hour’s drive of Cambridge that we should attend please drop us a line. We’re always grateful for new opportunities.


Stools

The simple stool courses are our most popular. This two day course started with the little one rung milking stool but more and more people are asking to build them bigger. When you book this course on craftcourses.com it will default to the smallest stool. If you want to build a stool that works well under a dining table or as a bedside table choose the option to add timber for a 50cm stool. If you want it to work well at a kitchen counter select the option to add timber for a 70cm stool. These are nominal heights for the leg blanks. The seats are actually at about 46 and 64cm respectively and have been designed around long-standing conventions that suit the majority of people and living spaces. But you can always make them shorter!

Adding rungs means a bit more work rounding legs, drilling mortises and cutting tenons so it’s a slightly longer first day but you get a beautiful piece of furniture that fits your home.


As always, if you’re interested in coming on a course and you want to find out more please give us a ring (07778 397328) or drop us an email. You can book all of our courses through the links on our website. If our dates aren’t perfect for you or you want to book for a group give us a call; we can usually work something out.

Enjoy your time in the workshop.

StJohn & Bryony

The Quiet Workshop Spring Newsletter

The Quiet Workshop Spring Newsletter

There was so much space before we put the benches in!

Come and visit our workshops in July!

We finished the expansion of the workshops over the winter and are now running all of our courses with six participants. If you don’t have the chance to come on a course why not visit us one weekend in July? This year we’re taking part in Cambridge Open Studios and invite you to come in and see what we’re doing. There might even be biscuits…

COS has been running for over 50 years and is an annual opportunity to meet artists and craftspeople in their studios. This will be our first year opening our doors for this event and we’re really looking forward to it.

There are several local artists in the Wilbrahams and Fulbourn who will also be taking part and they’re very much worth a visit so if you’re free for a weekend in July come and see us.

We’ll be open from 10-5 on both Saturday and Sunday of the 5/6th, 12/13th and 26/27th. We’re running a course on the 19th and 20th so we won’t be open for visitors then but look forward to seeing you on any other weekend in July.


Course Dates: 2025

Loads more courses and more spaces on each course. Our course schedule for 2025 is now on our website. There might be a couple of tiny changes but if you book a course we won’t change that date.


Shows this year

We’ve had a couple of changes to our show calendar and are delighted to have been accepted to Living Crafts Festival at Hatfield House in Hertfordshire. If you haven’t been before it’s worth the trip; it’s one of the biggest and most diverse craft shows we’ve been to and has an unparalleled range of workshops and activities.

If you think there’s a craft show within an hour’s drive of Cambridge that we should attend please drop us a line. We’re always grateful for new opportunities.


Books

We often get asked for book recommendations. Whilst there are lots of books about building Windsor Chairs there are fewer that are great for ladder backs, post and rung and rush-seated chairs. The two I got started with are often available used and are both an excellent introduction to the craft. They’re by no means exhaustive though. When describing the process of building the legs of a chair one of the authors writes, “Turn or otherwise round the legs…” which leaves plenty to the imagination. A little face-to-face instructions won’t go amiss!

Jack Hill’s book is often very reasonably priced but copies of Langsner’s book are sometimes eye-wateringly expensive. Setting up a search on Abebooksco.uk is worth doing.


What’s for tea?

All of the food on our courses is hand-made by Bryony. She trained at Le Cordon Bleu as a patisserie chef so her standards are rather high!


As always, if you’re interested in coming on a course please give us a ring (07778 397328) or drop us an email. You can book all of our courses through the links on our website.

Enjoy your time in the workshop.

StJohn & Bryony

The Quiet Workshop Autumn Newsletter

The Quiet Workshop Autumn Newsletter

End of the season

We’ve got two courses left this season; it draws to a close at the end of October. After that it gets a bit chilly in the workshop!

We’ve had a fantastic year so far: our first in our new workshops. Thank you so much to everyone who has attended. We’ve enjoyed every minute of it (except for that bit where StJohn cracked a tenon in a student’s stool! Don’t worry… all fixed.)


Course Dates: 2025

Loads more courses and more spaces on each course. Our course schedule for 2025 is now on our website. There might be a couple of tiny changes but if you book a course we won’t change that date.

Last year our March and April courses booked up over Christmas but we had spaces later in the summer.


Shows next year

We’ve got one show left this year: the London International Woodworking Fair on the 1st and 2nd November. It’s going to be a good one; we hope to see you there.

We exhibit at craft and country shows about once a month during the Spring and Summer. It’s a lovely way of meeting potential new chairmakers! If you’d like to have a chat about our courses and see some of the chairs, stools and benches you can make come along to a show next year and we can meet.

We don’t have exact dates for next year’s shows yet but this is our rough plan:

We look forward to seeing you there!

If you think there’s a craft show within an hour’s drive of Cambridge that we should attend please drop us a line. We’re always grateful for new opportunities.


Tools

We’ve finally managed to put up a tool list on the website!

It’s a work in progress but it’s most of the way there. If you’ve been on a course with us and spot something that’s missing please let us know.

On which note…

Christmas List

It’s almost acceptable to talk about Christmas in October so we’re taking the opportunity to publish The Quiet Workshop Christmas List 2024. This might become an annual event! Five gifts for the chair maker in your life at a range of prices:

Under £10

Olfa Slimline knife. Our favourite marking knife for when a pencil isn’t precise enough. Also good for any number of other workshop tasks and as the blades are snap-off it doesn’t need sharpening.

£10 to £20

Folding rule with depth gauge. StJohn has been carrying one of these for years. It has survived the washing machine but we don’t recommend a fast spin cycle. Over the winter we’re replacing all of the tape measures in the workshop with these because they’re more accurate and easier to use.

£20 to £50

Ray Iles Rounding Plane. Ridiculously satisfying.

£50 to £100

Diamond sharpening stone. We sharpen with oil stones in the workshop but if we were starting from scratch we’d buy a double sided diamond stone and never have to flatten it.

Over £100

The Quiet Workshop Bench screw and nut: £150. We make these and you can order them directly from us. Everyone who takes a class at our workshop knows how quick these are to use and how tightly they hold. We have about ten left in stock but won’t be making any more until after Christmas. If you’re planning a workbench build this is a great place to start.


What’s for lunch?

Since this was so popular last time here are some pictures of Bryony’s gorgeous food!


As always, if you’re interested in coming on a course please give us a ring (07778 397328) or drop us an email. You can book all of our courses through craftcourses.com

Enjoy your time in the workshop.

StJohn & Bryony

The Quiet Workshop Summer Newsletter

The Quiet Workshop Summer Newsletter

More courses; more shows

Despite some miserable weather it’s been an absolutely lovely summer in the workshop. We’ve run almost a dozen courses already this year and met many wonderful chair makers. Thank you to everyone who has attended; it’s been an absolute pleasure.

Our stool making courses have been sold out so we’ve added some more later in the year. Chairmaking courses are more of a commitment but we’ve been really happy with the response and have seen some beautiful chairs leave the workshop, most built by absolute beginners.


Shows

We exhibit and demonstrate at craft and country shows during the summer. It’s a lovely way of meeting potential new chairmakers! If you’d like to have a chat about our courses and see some of the chairs, stools and benches you can make come along to a show and we can meet:

We look forward to seeing you there!


How do you get that shine?

One of the most frequently asked questions on the course is about how we finish our furniture. Is it oil, lacquer, varnish? How do we apply it? Brush, roller, sponge, spray? How far do you sand? 240? 400? Higher?

The truth is: we hate sanding. And we’re not all that keen on smelly finishes and oil soaked rags. When we’re making a commissioned piece for sale we pull out all the stops but if we’re making a piece for us or a friend we have a very simple formula:

  • Sand with 80 grit
  • Burnish and wax
  • Polish

That’s it!

The key to this is a burnisher made from the offcuts of seagrass or Danish cord. These are based on the traditional French Polissoir which was just a bunch of straw wrapped up tightly with some more straw. We rub the burnisher in a hard wax that we make ourselves and then rub it hard on the sanded or planed timber. Rather than abrading the surface it burnishes it creating a smooth and silky surface. Then we just rub off any excess wax and call it done. It leaves a lovely smooth, soft sheen.

If it starts to look dirty or dull in a few years then we wash it with warm water and burnish it again.


Building a tall stool

We get a lot of requests to build a tall stool in the style of the simple stool. It’s a huge amount of work for a two day course so we’re offering an option to extend a two day course by one day (before the scheduled course weekend) to do all of the stock prep needed for a tall stall.

On craftcourses.com we’ve added these extension days as separate courses. You will need to book the extra day for the course you’re booking.


What’s for lunch?

Since this was so popular last time here are some pictures of Bryony’s gorgeous food!


As always, if you’re interested in coming on a course please give us a ring (07778 397328) or drop us an email. You can book all of our courses through craftcourses.com

Enjoy the better weather,

StJohn & Bryony

Correction: The Quiet Workshop Spring Newsletter

Correction: The Quiet Workshop Spring Newsletter

Apologies

In our recent newsletter we listed the Eadonstone Craft Fair on the 5th May. It is actually on the 4th May. Sorry for any confusion!

Thank you for a great start to the year

We’ve been incredibly busy here at The Quiet Workshop but all of that hard work is now being rewarded. We’ve run four workshops in three different designs at our new workshops so far this year and have lots of bookings going into the summer. Thank you for your support.

We had a lovely bunch of stool makers last weekend who all made beautiful pieces. It’s been a delightful start to the season and we’re really grateful for the reviews on craftcourses.com.

The new workbenches are in place and working well and the workshop looks lovely in the spring light. It’s a pleasure to be in there.

Several of our courses, particularly the round stool and simple stool have sold out so we’ve added a number of new dates, mostly at weekends. Have a look at craftcourses.com for the dates that suit you.


Shows

We exhibit and demonstrate at craft and country shows during the summer. It’s a lovely way of meeting potential new chairmakers! If you’d like to have a chat about our courses and see some of the chairs, stools and benches you can make come along to a show and we can meet:

We look forward to seeing you there!


Tools of the trade

We often get asked for tool lists. We try to keep the number of tools we use on courses as small and as affordable as possible so that when you go home and build your course chair a sibling it doesn’t cost you a fortune.

Some students want to bring their own tools. We’re very happy to accommodate that but we don’t have time to set them up and sharpen them during a course so only bring them if they’re in good condition. To give you an idea of the tools we use here is a photograph of the basic set for a simple stool or chair course. It doesn’t include all of the clamps and some of the less used tools.

If you want to bring some of your own tools but don’t know if they’re appropriate drop us an email and we can talk it through.


What’s for lunch?

The lovely reviews our students have posted seem to be as much about the food as the chairmaking!

When you come on a course you get elevenses, lunch and cake mid-afternoon. Bryony makes everything fresh each day and often the mid-morning cookies are still warm from the oven.

Last week we had our food hygiene inspection and all of the training, planning and preparation paid off with full marks!


As always, if you’re interested in coming on a course please give us a ring (07778 397328) or drop us an email.

Enjoy the spring,

StJohn & Bryony

The Quiet Workshop Spring Newsletter

The Quiet Workshop Spring Newsletter

Thank you for a great start to the year

We’ve been incredibly busy here at The Quiet Workshop but all of that hard work is now being rewarded. We’ve run four workshops in three different designs at our new workshops so far this year and have lots of bookings going into the summer. Thank you for your support.

We had a lovely bunch of stool makers last weekend who all made beautiful pieces. It’s been a delightful start to the season and we’re really grateful for the reviews on craftcourses.com.

The new workbenches are in place and working well and the workshop looks lovely in the spring light. It’s a pleasure to be in there.

Several of our courses, particularly the round stool and simple stool have sold out so we’ve added a number of new dates, mostly at weekends. Have a look at craftcourses.com for the dates that suit you.


Shows

We exhibit and demonstrate at craft and country shows during the summer. It’s a lovely way of meeting potential new chairmakers! If you’d like to have a chat about our courses and see some of the chairs, stools and benches you can make come along to a show and we can meet:

We look forward to seeing you there!


Tools of the trade

We often get asked for tool lists. We try to keep the number of tools we use on courses as small and as affordable as possible so that when you go home and build your course chair a sibling it doesn’t cost you a fortune.

Some students want to bring their own tools. We’re very happy to accommodate that but we don’t have time to set them up and sharpen them during a course so only bring them if they’re in good condition. To give you an idea of the tools we use here is a photograph of the basic set for a simple stool or chair course. It doesn’t include all of the clamps and some of the less used tools.

If you want to bring some of your own tools but don’t know if they’re appropriate drop us an email and we can talk it through.


What’s for lunch?

The lovely reviews our students have posted seem to be as much about the food as the chairmaking!

When you come on a course you get elevenses, lunch and cake mid-afternoon. Bryony makes everything fresh each day and often the mid-morning cookies are still warm from the oven.

Last week we had our food hygiene inspection and all of the training, planning and preparation paid off with full marks!


As always, if you’re interested in coming on a course please give us a ring (07778 397328) or drop us an email.

Enjoy the spring,

StJohn & Bryony

Bits and pieces

Bits and pieces

I’ve been preparing for social distancing since 1975. My barely-repressed nerd is now coming to the fore. If this is what happens in the first week imagine what I’ll be investigating by the peak? Comparative awl sharpening anyone? I could set up the microscope and look at the scratch marks made by each sharpening medium. In the meantime here’s a post about drill bits. Keep your puns to yourselves…

This is what we’re looking for: a clean hole bored at a slight angle. Most of the others are chipped. Now guess which bit made this hole and see if you’re right.

I probably make more  ⅝” holes in cylindrical bits of wood than all other woodworking joints combined. Given that I’m in the middle of a set of grates for my boat with more than a thousand half laps that’s saying something.

Because of this I’ve put quite a bit of time and testing into drill bits. About ten years ago I bought a forstner bit with a square shank that fits my brace. Brendan Gaffney has written extensively about these and there’s no point repeating it. I was so taken with that bit that I started collecting them with an eye to one day teaching ladderback classes. In ten years I’ve managed to accrue a grand total of… 2.

So a couple of years ago I decided to start testing other bits. Covid-19 has given me the time to apply a veneer of objectivity.

We need a scoring system:

  • Clean, consistent holes: very important. Chipped edges and scratches left by wandering bits are disappointing. If they don’t consistently bore the same diameter hole they’re no use. I’m double weighting this by giving a score for holes at 90° and another at about 80° – roughly the angle of stretchers into back posts.
  • Ease of use: they have to be easy to locate on a cylindrical chair leg, cut without a herculean effort and not stall. If they bind and need to be cleared the score goes down.
  • Speed: I’m measuring this in revolutions, not time. More points – lower time.
  • Cost: I’m including postage. Some of these are hard to find. More points – lower cost.
  • Availability: I thought about making this a binary score or combining it with cost. But I’ll keep it simple.

I use three species of timber most of the time: ash, oak and chestnut. Ash is disappearing from our woodlands but not yet from our timber yards. Oak is a perennial favourite and chestnut, whilst a bit prone to dents, is a great timber for chairs. If you want to know how these bits perform in your favourite species send me a piece and I’ll run the test again.

I bored four holes, 3/4″ deep with each bit in a 1 3/8″ leg blank from each species. I counted the number of revolutions each took and compared the holes. Halfway through I realised that I was using a 9/16″ Jennings bit and did them all again with the 5/8″. Then I did another set at an angle.

All holes are bored with a brace. The bits with a square shank are in an old extension. Those designed for an electric drill are in a Famag extension. None of the bits slipped in the extensions when properly tightened and the Famag extension didn’t slip in the brace.

Let’s meet the contestants.

Spade bit. The cheapest bit here. Lots of people do good work with these but I’ve never seen one used like this..

Centre bit. I threw this in because I happened to have one about the right size. In fact it’s a bit bigger than 5/8”. I had very low expectations on turned parts.

Stanley Powerbore. Jenny Alexander’s favoured bit for green wood. This isn’t green wood and these are really hard to find new. They also have only one cutter so are likely to be slow.

Gedge or Cooke’s pattern auger bit. Designed for end grain but liked by Windsor chair makers because they leave a clean hole. Interesting to sharpen.

Jennings pattern auger bit. Ubiquitous. One of my most used bits. But not for chairmaking.

Forstner bits designed for a brace. Rare, no longer made. I’ve got two so I tested both.

Famag Forstner bit. Excellent in a drill press. Saw tooth edge. I’ve been using these in a brace for a while.

Fisch Wave Forstner bit. Less saw tooth to the edge. Again, excellent in a drill press. I hoped that the wave edge gives some advantage over the saw tooth.

Wood beaver power auger bit. The most aggressive bit here with four cutters.*

Spoon bit. I didn’t even test this bit. I can make it work in flat stock. I’ve practiced with it enough so that it doesn’t wander around the workpiece but I couldn’t get it started anywhere near the mark in round stock. It’s here to say: don’t bother.

There’s one obvious bit missing: the brad point. Lots of chairmakers like these in electric drills. Curtis Buchanon and Pete Galbert both recommend they be used at full speed. Given that I’m using a brace they’re not really relevant. They’re also fiendishly expensive this large so I didn’t put them in the test. That said – if you’re using an electric drill big brad point drill bits are worth getting or grinding yourself.

Many boring hours later I had some surprising results:

BitClean/10Ease/5Speed/5Cost/5Available/5Total
Spade2215515
Centre9434323
Powerbore7411214
Gedge1251110
Jennings5353420
Forstner for brace 16321113
Forstner for brace 27341116
Famag forstner8443524
Fisch wave7333521
Wood Beaver*2253517

Not what I was expecting either!

The hole nearest the camera in the first photograph was bored by a centre bit. It was consistently the best. It’s also the easiest to sharpen. However there’s one criterion I didn’t measure – consistent sizes between different bits. I’ve got a couple of centre bits that are roughly 5/8″ but that’s not really good enough. I need to be able to match them, consistently to a tenon former of a caliper on the lathe. Centre bits are all old and whilst very easy to find used aren’t consistent. If you’re working on your own and only need one bit you could do a lot worse than get one of these, keep it sharp and match your tenon former to it. It’ll work well.

But if you want half a dozen bits that are interchangeable and match tenons formed on the lathe then the Famag is the one. The Fisch was disappointing. It didn’t chip out but left a fuzzy edge along the grain. Not terrible but the Famag was better.

The biggest surprise was that the modern power bits were better in a brace than the old bits designed for the purpose. Even if cost wasn’t a factor I would be using the Famag.

It’s worth noting that the Jennings excellent at 90º but with even a small angle it produced a lot of tear out.

Most disappointing was the powerbore. I paid a lot of money both to buy it and get it here. Save your pennies.

Winners

*I previously called the Armeg Wood Beaver bit a Wood Owl. I don’t own a 5/8” Wood Owl but I do have one in 1” which I use for drilling dog holes in workbenches. The bit shown here and tested is a 16mm Wood Beaver. Great for drilling fast holes at right angles to flat stock. Not ideal here.

Tools

Tools

Chair making appeals to a laid-back crowd

Every chair making book I own shows the author sitting on a shaving horse contentedly pulling at a stick with a drawknife. On two of them it’s the cover photo. I’ve spent many happy hours doing the same myself, but a shaving horse takes up quite a bit of space in my little workshop and I rarely use it for anything but chairs. And it is the very definition of rabbit hole workshoppery: making the tool to make the thing. You can spend hours building a museum quality shaving horse before you start building chairs.

My drawknives see a little more action at the bench but they get harder to use the drier the timber so often I find a different tool if I’m not using green, ring-porous wood.

If you’re reading this you probably already have a jack plane and a workbench of some description which means you’ve already got the tools to start building chair parts.

Not needed here

While I was building this chair I tried to use common joiners’ tools before I picked up a specialist item. A couple have found their way into the kit when I felt the outlay was small and the time saving and precision were significant. So here’s the list:

Essential tools

  • Jack plane
  • Chisels: 25mm (1″), 6mm (1/4″)
  • Cross cut saw
  • Rip Saw
  • Tenon Saw
  • Mallet
  • Bevel gauge
  • Combination square
  • Awl
  • Tape measure/folding rule
  • Marking knife
  • Brace/electric drill
  • Bits:
    • 5/8″ nominal
    • 3/4″ nominal
    • 25mm (1″)
  • Bit extensions if your bits are short
  • Tenon rounder 5/8″
  • Spokeshave
  • Marking gauge
  • Craft knife
  • Leather scraps
  • Glue brush
  • Sandpaper
  • 2x quick grip clamps
  • 2x sash clamps or large F clamps
  • Cable staple gun
  • Wire cutters or heavy duty scissors
  • Wallpaper steamer (or other method of making steam)
  • Plastic bag or steam box

Optional but recommended

  • Hold fasts
  • Lump hammer
  • Deadblow mallet
  • Heavily cambered iron for jack plane
  • Concave scraper
  • Greenwood pencil
  • Steam-proof gloves

Most of this is self explanatory but a few things are worth a note:

Spokeshaves

Old and new

Modern, ‘premium’ spokeshaves have quite long soles. Their metal antecedents did not. My old £5 Record A151 is 19mm from toe to heel. My Veritas is a full 5mm longer. This makes the Veritas easier to use; all of the extra length is ahead of the iron so that it’s easier to register on the workpiece without rocking. It’s a clever design by the manufacturer that makes the learning curve much shorter. Unfortunately it makes all other curves much larger.

About as tight as the A151 will cut on a concave curve

The shorter sole of the old Record (and its Stanley cousins) means that it can create smaller radius curves. This is very helpful when smoothing the concave curve of the back slats on this chair. You could buy a round bottomed spokeshave but it’s another tool to sharpen and store and they are a bit trickier to use. Old (and new) wooden spokeshaves are limited by the size of their irons. Many have longer soles than the 151 and the length is behind the edge.

Bevel gauge

A long blade is essential

One is essential. A second is not a luxury. If you don’t have one already my recommendation is the 10″ Stanley No. 18. It locks with a screw from the bottom that runs through the stock and so sits flat either way around. It also locks solidly. They come in different lengths. For the purposes of chair making get the longest you can find.

Scrapers

20 minutes vs £7.50

To get the posts and stretchers close to round without a lathe a dedicated scraper is an excellent tool. You can buy ‘chair devils’ but it seems like such an extravagance that I never have. For under a tenner you can get a pair of precisely sized spindle scrapers. It’s hard to argue with the price but if you do get them make sure that you grind the corners off or a moment’s inattention will leave you with deep scars in your work. If you have a grinder and a bit of old saw plate or a spare cabinet scraper you can roll your own and get a much more convenient tool. I put a 5/8″ curve on one side and 1 3/8″ on the other flaring out to take a wider piece.

Not an HSE approved technique?

Steaming

It looks so tame until you fill it up and plug it in.

I’ve used a steam iron, an electric kettle with the switch taped down and several combinations of camping stoves and pans to generate steam but the easiest and safest solution is a wallpaper steamer. At about £40 you might think this is a luxury and I wouldn’t argue but if you don’t already have the makings of a jury-rigged death trap and are planning to buy something this is your best bet. You can still do yourself an enormous amount of damage but you can do it continuously and reliably from a handy flexible hose.

Chair parts cooked to perfection.

To multiply the risk of scalding injuries you can forego the traditional steam box and heat your back posts and slats in a plastic bag. This is a technique used by boat builders to steam planks in place and scales down well for the occasional chair maker. Once you catch the chair making bug you’ll quickly decide to build a box but a thin steam-filled sack of seething heat will cut out one obstacle to bending timber.

It might be time to replace those…

Rather than add to the terror by pressing into service that moth-eaten pair of old leather gloves for handling the scorching hot sticks it is definitely worth investing in a pair of bakers’ steam-proof gloves. Don’t use them for anything else; you don’t want to wear a hole in them. When faced with the collapsing pile of red-hot cling wrap that your steam bag turns into the moment you touch it, these will give you a bit of confidence, if not dexterity.

Clamps

They pull stuff apart too

Irwin Quick Grip clamps are that very rare thing in woodworking: excellent and cheap. They may not be the most robust clamps or exert the greatest force but they are incredibly useful. I keep three 600mm medium duty clamps on the bench during dry fit and glue up. I only use two but I’ve had the grips pull out on a couple which involves a couple of minutes with a screwdriver to reassemble them. It’s time you can’t afford when the glue is cooling so it’s worth having a spare on hand.

When Quick Grips aren’t strong enough to pull two pieces together you need the mechanical advantage of a screw clamp. I have a few 600mm F clamps that have a deeper reach than bar clamps and can pull even the most recalcitrant ladders into line. They’re particularly helpful on the back slat bending forms.

Tenon Rounder

This is the one specialist tool I would not be without. Even though I have three lathes (I know, I know) and generally turn chair parts to completion on them I still use a tenon former because I’ve matched it with my favourite bit. You could shave all of the tenons to size. Jenny Alexander did it this way and it can work well. But it takes a long time. Still – it’s pleasant work seated at the shaving horse. I prefer to use this tool and then scrape the transition. Here’s the maths: this chair has 24 5/8″ tenons. At £40 for the tool it’s less than £1.70 per tenon for one chair. Build four chairs and it’s under £40p. Your decision.

Bits

At most you need three sizes of bit to build a ladder back armchair: 5/8” for the stretchers, 3/4” for the arm tenons into the back posts and 1” for the front posts into the arms. But you can cut out the 3/4” if you’re happy to have a slightly skinny tenon into the back posts, as I did here.

Now you have a choice of bits. Traditionalists might like an auger bit in a brace but you risk the long lead screw coming through the opposite side of the workpiece. My favourite chairmaking bit is the square shanked Forstner bit in a brace but I can’t recommend it because you might wait for years for a 5/8” to come to the market and then you’ll have to sell a kidney. So the choice is really down to modern bits designed for high speed drills.

In an electric drill modern bits guzzle wood as if the worker’s livelihood depended on the industrial production of hamster bedding. But if you’re planning to adapt them for a brace you will find saw toothed Forstner bits rather less impressive than their single cutter ancestors. They’ll work but you might be there a while.

If you’re buying a dedicated bit don’t get it until you’ve tried the tenon former. I find a 5/8″ hole a bit sloppy for my 5/8″ tenons and so use a 15.5mm Forstner bit which is perfect (and more than .3mm smaller than 5/8”!). You can adjust them a hair but they’re finicky. Whichever bit you decide to buy get the long version or buy an extension. More on this later…