The Quiet Workshop Autumn Newsletter

The Quiet Workshop Autumn Newsletter

A handcrafted wooden chair with a woven seat and a simple, elegant design, displayed on a wooden workbench.

We’ve had a lovely year of courses and shows, meeting new people and sending them home happy, well-fed and with a chair they’re proud of.

It’s been busy with new opportunities: we’ve taught Danish cord weaving at the Festival of Upholstery, a seat weaving class at the St.Alban’s Upholstery School and have launched workbench plans in our online shop.

Thank you so much to everyone who has come on a course, at our workshops and elsewhere. Thanks also to those who have supported us through buying products in our new shop.

Our courses start again in March but over the winter we’ve got plenty to keep us occupied: a new chair design that will be offered as a course, production of our hard finishing wax and vice screws and the launch of custom made workbenches, available from our online store. We’ll have more details of all of these in the new year.

Course Dates 2026

We’ve published the dates for our courses for 2026 – they’re all available on our website. They link through to Craft Courses for booking.

So that we don’t disappoint anyone we always run courses that have bookings; if just one person books on a particular date then that course will run. Whilst this makes no financial sense whatsoever we feel that if people make plans in advance they should be confident that they’re not going to be disappointed.

That said, we’ve scheduled over 30 courses for next season and sometimes we cancel courses that don’t have bookings a couple of weeks beforehand if they’re close to another date that’s fully booked.

If you’d like a course for a small group and our dates don’t suit you please get in touch. If we haven’t had a booking at a time that does suit you we’re always happy to move things around.

Shows – 2026

We’ve really enjoyed the shows this year and though they take out weekends during the season we find them a lovely way to meet people who are interested in our craft.

Some of these dates are provisional because not all the shows we attend have confirmed dates yet. We’ll update them on the website if they change.

If you think there’s a craft show within an hour’s drive of Cambridge that we should attend please drop us a line. We’re always grateful for new opportunities.

Workbench plans – available now.

Thanks to everyone who has downloaded or bought paper copies of our workbench plans. We’ve had some really useful feedback on these and we are looking forward to seeing some of the finished benches.

3D model of a woodworking bench featuring a sturdy structure, a slatted lower shelf, and a crank mechanism for clamping workpieces.

They’re available in six different sizes: three in metric, three in imperial. But they’re not just a straight conversion. We’ve designed the imperial and metric benches around the materials most commonly available in different regions and have worked out sensible sizes so that you don’t end up with something silly like a bench top that’s six feet six and forty seven sixty-fourths of an inch!

  • 1m/3.5′ – ideal for chairmaking, small and easy to store but rock solid
  • 1.5m/5′ – a good sized joinery bench but every piece is manageable when setting up or moving it around
  • 2m/7′ – a bench big enough for any furniture project but with a top that’s still moveable by a normal human being

These benches have been designed with five principles in mind:

  • Built from easily available materials with basic woodworking tools
  • Only very basic joinery skills required
  • Easy and quick to set up
  • Every component must be light enough to move easily around your workspace
  • Rock solid; the fact that it packs down quickly mustn’t make it flimsy in use

The plans include complete cutting lists for all pieces, a suggested tool list and instructions. Eventually there will be YouTube videos. We’ve finished the introductory video and working on the next 4!

Workbench vice screws

A collection of wooden parts for a workbench vice, including a threaded screw, blocks, a threaded rod, and several small components, placed on a wooden work surface.

To help you along with your workbench build we’ve started selling the vice screws that we use on our benches. You can use a metal vice attached to the top or you can get a wooden vice screw from us.


St.Alban’s Upholstery School & Studio

A woven Danish cord seat on a wooden chair with a rustic finish, placed in a workshop environment with tables and materials in the background.

In September we taught a one day workshop in seat weaving with Danish cord and seagrass at the wonderful St.Albans Upholstery School. Participants brought their own chairs that needed a new seat and we worked out a solution for each chair. At the end of the day 8 new seat weavers went home with a completed chair.

It was a really challenging and worthwhile day. Usually we’re teaching people to weave the same seat with only a slight variation in pattern so seeing 8 different designs go home at the end of the day was very satisfying.

Nothing says you’ve done a good job like being invited back and we’re delighted to be delivering another course in January. Keep an eye on their website for details.

If you don’t know St.Alban’s Upholstery School and Studio I hesitate to point you towards their website. 5 minutes of looking at their gallery can prompt either a career change or radical rethink of your interior designs – you have been warned!


A splash of colour

An array of dyed Danish cord in various colors, neatly arranged on cardboard tags on a light wooden surface.

Our amazingly talented friend Jacqui Symons at Slow Lane Studio sent us some dyed Danish cord earlier in the year. We’ve been itching to weave it into a seat and finally found the time and the right chair.

A handcrafted armchair featuring a woven seat made of natural Danish cord, with a light wood frame and vertical slats on the backrest.

This arm chair uses cord dyed with Brazilwood. The photos don’t really do it justice. It’s an incredibly rich and deep colour and gives the light ash and muted Danish cord chair a new dimension.

A book titled 'From Plant to Print' by Jacqui Symons, displayed on a wooden surface, featuring images of natural dyes and pigments for printmaking.

We’ve got several more samples to try before we work out what to do next. It’s unlikely that it will feature on a course soon because we need to test it for colour transfer (sitting on it in light coloured trousers!) before we can be sure it’s a complete success. But for the time being we’re delighted!

Jacqui published a book recently on natural dyes and pigments. It’s the culmination of years of testing and researching and is beautifully illustrated. Available direct from her website.


Hard wax

A hand pressing a corded tool into a tin of finishing wax, with a wooden surface in the background.

On every course we get asked about finishes: oil or varnish, shellac or wax? We’re always very hesitant to recommend finishes to course participants because we’ve been so unhappy with what’s available. Ideally a finish should be easy to apply, hard-wearing, non-colouring and easy to repair if it gets damaged.

This is called a unicorn finish.

We’ve used lots of different finishes over the years and have had acceptable results from shellac and Osmo Polyx Raw, mixed results from oils and varnishes and disappointing results from waxes.

As a generalisation the longer a finish lasts the harder or more time-consuming it is to apply. Lots of oils and varnishes give too much orange or yellow colour to the wood. Soft waxes are easy to apply but give little long-term protection to the wood.

So several years ago we started experimenting with our own wax recipe. Most furniture waxes are soft and contain beeswax or a soft microcrystalline wax. Most use a petroleum based solvent. Most are easy to apply but offer very little longevity or protection.

But there is an alternative. Automotive and marine wax manufacturers use Carnauba wax, a natural, plant-based wax that has a higher melting point than beeswax but is much harder and longer lasting. It’s what professional ‘detailers’ use to make supercars look shiny.

We started experimenting with a blend of Carnauba wax, beeswax and citrus oil to create a wax that is definitely a little bit harder to apply than traditional soft waxes but offers much better protection and longevity.

We’ve been using it on all of our workshop and household furniture for several years and have been tweaking the formula each time. Now we’re happy with the results.

It’s applied with either a burnisher or a grey pad, left for a few minutes and then buffed off.

A tin of homemade hard finishing wax with a partially open lid, placed on a wooden surface alongside a cloth and a roll of twine.

We use it on its own or over other finishes if required. It gives a soft, subtle sheen and leaves the wood feeling smooth and protected.

The huge advantage of a finish like this is that it can be applied in one coat and the piece of furniture can be handled straight away. You don’t need to leave it to dry overnight and if it starts to wear you can easily top it up without having to sand it back.

We’ve got to work out the packaging details and then we’ll be putting it up on website: look for it in the new year.


As always, if you’re interested in coming on a course and you want to find out more please give us a ring (07778 397328) or drop us an email. You can book all of our courses through the links on our website. If our dates aren’t perfect for you or you want to book for a group give us a call; we can usually work something out. Don’t forget course fees include all materials, lunch and refreshments each day.

Enjoy your time in the workshop.

StJohn & Bryony

Two individuals seated in a workshop, smiling at the camera. One wears a red hoodie and the other a beige sweater. In the background, various wooden chairs and a small table are visible.
The Quiet Workshop Newsletter: Workbench Plans!

The Quiet Workshop Newsletter: Workbench Plans!

Technical drawing of a workbench design featuring labeled components and measurements.

They’re here: Workbench plans!

By popular request (no really!) we’re delighted to announce the publication of our workbench plans.

3D model of a workbench with a sturdy design, featuring a flat surface and two vices on each side.

We’ve drawn plans to build our rock solid, take-apart bench in 1m, 1.5m, 2m, 3 1/2′, 5′ and 7′ lengths with a choice of two different vices. You have the choice of metric or imperial measurements. They’re not just conversions of the measurements we usually work in, they’re designed from the ground up in each system. They’re available in our new shop here.

Each set of plans includes 6 A1 drawings, an A4 drawing and 11 pages of instructions. We’re now working on a series of videos for YouTube to support builders with the plans. The plans are currently available for download. Paper plans will be available very soon.

From the introduction to the instructions:

“Our garage used to be a coffin makers’ workshop; in it there is a 10’ bench that is older than any living woodworker. It is built from whatever material didn’t make the grade for coffins and is hammered together with the random selection of nails they had to hand.

Despite the apparent lack of joinery, low grade materials and optimistic approach to bracing it survived life in a busy professional workshop.

Your bench will be better. It will have better joinery, more carefully selected materials and a better design. And you will put more time and thought into building it. So there’s plenty of room for error. When building it live by the phrase “It’s a workbench, not a piano.” When you’ve finished it don’t point out the errors to friends and family and soon you’ll forget where they are. If you get tear-out when you plane it: don’t worry. If you pull out a lump as you drill a through-tenon: never mind. These scars will blend with the clamp marks, the saw cuts and the glue spots that will appear the moment you start using it. Remember: “It’s a workbench, not a piano.”

The design of this bench has been evolving for many years. We run chairmaking workshops and so have built a lot of benches. With each generation they get a little bit better and this is the result.

These benches are designed for woodworkers who have a small amount of space and time to practice their craft. Space that is probably shared with bicycles, a lawn mower and a jet wash. They need a rock solid platform for planing, sawing and chiselling but have to pack it up and share it with the rest of their lives.”


Don’t forget we’re taking part in Cambridge Open Studios this month so if you want to come and have a look round we’re here between 10am and 5pm on the 12th&13th and 26th&27th July.

As always, if you’re interested in coming on a course and you want to find out more please give us a ring (07778 397328) or drop us an email. You can book all of our courses through the links on our website. If our dates aren’t perfect for you or you want to book for a group give us a call; we can usually work something out.

Enjoy your time in the workshop.

StJohn & Bryony

Two people sitting on a workbench surrounded by woodworking tools, with plans displayed in the background.
The Quiet Workshop Summer Newsletter

The Quiet Workshop Summer Newsletter

Coming soon: Workbench plans!

On every course and at every show we are asked about our workbenches. We’ve put a lot of thought and a lot of work into them over more than 10 years. Our most recent bench is at least the eighth iteration of a design that is always almost perfect! Just one more tweak…

So it’s time to stop procrastinating and publish the plans. We’re making these available in six different sizes: three in metric, three in imperial, all in the same set of plans. But they’re not just a straight conversion. We’ve designed the imperial and metric benches around the materials most commonly available in different regions and have worked out sensible sizes so that you don’t end up with something silly like a bench top that’s six feet six and forty seven sixty-fourths of an inch!

  • 1m/3.5′ – ideal for chairmaking, small and easy to store but rock solid
  • 1.5m/5′ – a good sized joinery bench but every piece is manageable when setting up or moving it around
  • 2m/7′ – a bench big enough for any furniture project but with a top that’s still moveable by a normal human being

These benches have been designed with five principles in mind:

  • Built from easily available materials with basic woodworking tools
  • Only very basic joinery skills required
  • Easy and quick to set up
  • Every component must be light enough to move easily around your workspace
  • Rock solid; the fact that it packs down quickly mustn’t make it flimsy in use

The plans will include complete cutting lists for all pieces, a suggested tool list and instructions. Eventually there will be YouTube videos but don’t hold your breath…

We’re setting up a shop page on our website: thequietworkshop.com and when that’s live we’ll send a very short newsletter round. Probably the end of June.

If you haven’t been on one of our courses yet but would like to see one in action then come along to…


Cambridge Open Studios

Every July, for the last 51 years, artists and craftspeople in and around Cambridge throw open their doors and invite you into their studios. It’s an incredible celebration of the creativity of the people in the area. 223 studios and 12 larger venues will be open over the four weekends of July. We’ll be taking part on the 1st, 2nd and 4th weekends: 5-6th, 12-13th & 26-27th.

We’re on page 62 of the guide. We’re listed as number 144 under my name: StJohn Starkie. The number has nothing to do with our workshop address which is 41 High Street, Great Wilbraham! We look forward to seeing you in July.


Shows this year

We had a lovely time at Living Crafts Fair at Hatfield House. If you haven’t been before we thoroughly recommend it; we’ll definitely be back next year. If you missed us there you can catch us at one of the following:

If you think there’s a craft show within an hour’s drive of Cambridge that we should attend please drop us a line. We’re always grateful for new opportunities.


Stools

The simple stool courses are our most popular. This two day course started with the little one rung milking stool but more and more people are asking to build them bigger. When you book this course on craftcourses.com it will default to the smallest stool. If you want to build a stool that works well under a dining table or as a bedside table choose the option to add timber for a 50cm stool. If you want it to work well at a kitchen counter select the option to add timber for a 70cm stool. These are nominal heights for the leg blanks. The seats are actually at about 46 and 64cm respectively and have been designed around long-standing conventions that suit the majority of people and living spaces. But you can always make them shorter!

Adding rungs means a bit more work rounding legs, drilling mortises and cutting tenons so it’s a slightly longer first day but you get a beautiful piece of furniture that fits your home.


As always, if you’re interested in coming on a course and you want to find out more please give us a ring (07778 397328) or drop us an email. You can book all of our courses through the links on our website. If our dates aren’t perfect for you or you want to book for a group give us a call; we can usually work something out.

Enjoy your time in the workshop.

StJohn & Bryony

The Quiet Workshop Spring Newsletter

The Quiet Workshop Spring Newsletter

There was so much space before we put the benches in!

Come and visit our workshops in July!

We finished the expansion of the workshops over the winter and are now running all of our courses with six participants. If you don’t have the chance to come on a course why not visit us one weekend in July? This year we’re taking part in Cambridge Open Studios and invite you to come in and see what we’re doing. There might even be biscuits…

COS has been running for over 50 years and is an annual opportunity to meet artists and craftspeople in their studios. This will be our first year opening our doors for this event and we’re really looking forward to it.

There are several local artists in the Wilbrahams and Fulbourn who will also be taking part and they’re very much worth a visit so if you’re free for a weekend in July come and see us.

We’ll be open from 10-5 on both Saturday and Sunday of the 5/6th, 12/13th and 26/27th. We’re running a course on the 19th and 20th so we won’t be open for visitors then but look forward to seeing you on any other weekend in July.


Course Dates: 2025

Loads more courses and more spaces on each course. Our course schedule for 2025 is now on our website. There might be a couple of tiny changes but if you book a course we won’t change that date.


Shows this year

We’ve had a couple of changes to our show calendar and are delighted to have been accepted to Living Crafts Festival at Hatfield House in Hertfordshire. If you haven’t been before it’s worth the trip; it’s one of the biggest and most diverse craft shows we’ve been to and has an unparalleled range of workshops and activities.

If you think there’s a craft show within an hour’s drive of Cambridge that we should attend please drop us a line. We’re always grateful for new opportunities.


Books

We often get asked for book recommendations. Whilst there are lots of books about building Windsor Chairs there are fewer that are great for ladder backs, post and rung and rush-seated chairs. The two I got started with are often available used and are both an excellent introduction to the craft. They’re by no means exhaustive though. When describing the process of building the legs of a chair one of the authors writes, “Turn or otherwise round the legs…” which leaves plenty to the imagination. A little face-to-face instructions won’t go amiss!

Jack Hill’s book is often very reasonably priced but copies of Langsner’s book are sometimes eye-wateringly expensive. Setting up a search on Abebooksco.uk is worth doing.


What’s for tea?

All of the food on our courses is hand-made by Bryony. She trained at Le Cordon Bleu as a patisserie chef so her standards are rather high!


As always, if you’re interested in coming on a course please give us a ring (07778 397328) or drop us an email. You can book all of our courses through the links on our website.

Enjoy your time in the workshop.

StJohn & Bryony

The Quiet Workshop Autumn Newsletter

The Quiet Workshop Autumn Newsletter

End of the season

We’ve got two courses left this season; it draws to a close at the end of October. After that it gets a bit chilly in the workshop!

We’ve had a fantastic year so far: our first in our new workshops. Thank you so much to everyone who has attended. We’ve enjoyed every minute of it (except for that bit where StJohn cracked a tenon in a student’s stool! Don’t worry… all fixed.)


Course Dates: 2025

Loads more courses and more spaces on each course. Our course schedule for 2025 is now on our website. There might be a couple of tiny changes but if you book a course we won’t change that date.

Last year our March and April courses booked up over Christmas but we had spaces later in the summer.


Shows next year

We’ve got one show left this year: the London International Woodworking Fair on the 1st and 2nd November. It’s going to be a good one; we hope to see you there.

We exhibit at craft and country shows about once a month during the Spring and Summer. It’s a lovely way of meeting potential new chairmakers! If you’d like to have a chat about our courses and see some of the chairs, stools and benches you can make come along to a show next year and we can meet.

We don’t have exact dates for next year’s shows yet but this is our rough plan:

We look forward to seeing you there!

If you think there’s a craft show within an hour’s drive of Cambridge that we should attend please drop us a line. We’re always grateful for new opportunities.


Tools

We’ve finally managed to put up a tool list on the website!

It’s a work in progress but it’s most of the way there. If you’ve been on a course with us and spot something that’s missing please let us know.

On which note…

Christmas List

It’s almost acceptable to talk about Christmas in October so we’re taking the opportunity to publish The Quiet Workshop Christmas List 2024. This might become an annual event! Five gifts for the chair maker in your life at a range of prices:

Under £10

Olfa Slimline knife. Our favourite marking knife for when a pencil isn’t precise enough. Also good for any number of other workshop tasks and as the blades are snap-off it doesn’t need sharpening.

£10 to £20

Folding rule with depth gauge. StJohn has been carrying one of these for years. It has survived the washing machine but we don’t recommend a fast spin cycle. Over the winter we’re replacing all of the tape measures in the workshop with these because they’re more accurate and easier to use.

£20 to £50

Ray Iles Rounding Plane. Ridiculously satisfying.

£50 to £100

Diamond sharpening stone. We sharpen with oil stones in the workshop but if we were starting from scratch we’d buy a double sided diamond stone and never have to flatten it.

Over £100

The Quiet Workshop Bench screw and nut: £150. We make these and you can order them directly from us. Everyone who takes a class at our workshop knows how quick these are to use and how tightly they hold. We have about ten left in stock but won’t be making any more until after Christmas. If you’re planning a workbench build this is a great place to start.


What’s for lunch?

Since this was so popular last time here are some pictures of Bryony’s gorgeous food!


As always, if you’re interested in coming on a course please give us a ring (07778 397328) or drop us an email. You can book all of our courses through craftcourses.com

Enjoy your time in the workshop.

StJohn & Bryony

The Quiet Workshop Summer Newsletter

The Quiet Workshop Summer Newsletter

More courses; more shows

Despite some miserable weather it’s been an absolutely lovely summer in the workshop. We’ve run almost a dozen courses already this year and met many wonderful chair makers. Thank you to everyone who has attended; it’s been an absolute pleasure.

Our stool making courses have been sold out so we’ve added some more later in the year. Chairmaking courses are more of a commitment but we’ve been really happy with the response and have seen some beautiful chairs leave the workshop, most built by absolute beginners.


Shows

We exhibit and demonstrate at craft and country shows during the summer. It’s a lovely way of meeting potential new chairmakers! If you’d like to have a chat about our courses and see some of the chairs, stools and benches you can make come along to a show and we can meet:

We look forward to seeing you there!


How do you get that shine?

One of the most frequently asked questions on the course is about how we finish our furniture. Is it oil, lacquer, varnish? How do we apply it? Brush, roller, sponge, spray? How far do you sand? 240? 400? Higher?

The truth is: we hate sanding. And we’re not all that keen on smelly finishes and oil soaked rags. When we’re making a commissioned piece for sale we pull out all the stops but if we’re making a piece for us or a friend we have a very simple formula:

  • Sand with 80 grit
  • Burnish and wax
  • Polish

That’s it!

The key to this is a burnisher made from the offcuts of seagrass or Danish cord. These are based on the traditional French Polissoir which was just a bunch of straw wrapped up tightly with some more straw. We rub the burnisher in a hard wax that we make ourselves and then rub it hard on the sanded or planed timber. Rather than abrading the surface it burnishes it creating a smooth and silky surface. Then we just rub off any excess wax and call it done. It leaves a lovely smooth, soft sheen.

If it starts to look dirty or dull in a few years then we wash it with warm water and burnish it again.


Building a tall stool

We get a lot of requests to build a tall stool in the style of the simple stool. It’s a huge amount of work for a two day course so we’re offering an option to extend a two day course by one day (before the scheduled course weekend) to do all of the stock prep needed for a tall stall.

On craftcourses.com we’ve added these extension days as separate courses. You will need to book the extra day for the course you’re booking.


What’s for lunch?

Since this was so popular last time here are some pictures of Bryony’s gorgeous food!


As always, if you’re interested in coming on a course please give us a ring (07778 397328) or drop us an email. You can book all of our courses through craftcourses.com

Enjoy the better weather,

StJohn & Bryony

Little Elm Stool

Little Elm Stool

Teaching chair making is a fairly involved business; most courses are five days or longer. I’ve been looking for a post and rung or ladder back project that I can teach over a weekend or three days. Windsor chair makers have the simple three legged stick stool that can be knocked together in a morning. Add a bit of seat saddling and it’s a day long course. Put some stretchers on it and maybe a fourth leg and it’s a weekend.

But I want students to get the chance to do some weaving and make the piece their own. I’ve made a number of square stools that are a lot of fun to build and have basic, right angle joinery that’s ideal for an introductory course. But there’s a lot of weaving there! Plenty of opportunities to go wrong and a workout for inexperienced hands.

Probably the most useful design I’ve built but a lot of weaving for beginner.

So I drew this little stool with three goals in mind: you should be proud to take it home with you, you should enjoy a range of skills while building it and you should be able to do it in a weekend (perhaps a bank holiday weekend?). I think it’s quite pretty as a small stool but it would easily grow into a bar stool; longer legs with less angle and stretchers at different heights to accommodate different leg lengths would turn it into something really useful at a kitchen counter.

This is the first version. The next will have a narrower seat frame and a bigger seat. That will make it more comfortable but take a bit longer to weave. That won’t be a great hardship; it took less than an hour to weave this little seat. The tenons aren’t quite where I want them and the

Construction is fairly foolproof and uses a couple of simple jigs. More on those in a future post. I’m using socketed tenons for the leg to seat frame joints. Again, these deserve their own post but suffice to say I’m very happy with them.

Jigs and techniques

Jigs and techniques

As with tools I’m trying to keep jigs simple and few. But this is chair making so they’re unavoidable.

Jigs and forms are used for bending, aligning and holding pieces of timber. Given that chairs are fairly complex shapes with lots of curves the jigs chair makers use get pretty specialised and this can put off the novice.

Leg bends seem to attract the most complex jigs. Have a look at Jeff Lefkowitz’s jig-as-artwork for the double curves in Boggs chairs. Wonderful. But if we’re building country ladder backs or Arts and Crafts chairs we only need one simple bend and we can get that with a block and a few clamps. Not much of a barrier to entry.

Curved on three faces this simple block acts as the bending form with the legs clamped to the bench and then later as the drying form with the legs tied across it. Here I’m lining it all up before steaming.

The back slat forms are more involved. I have used the traditional ladder style for these but I don’t really like them. If you don’t prebend the pieces they produce more of a kink than a curve and are better employed as drying forms after the slats have been mostly set in a more supportive form.

This jig will do double duty to hold the slat when carving the shape into it and so is worth spending some time on. If you want to cut down on the work you can just build the convex side and clamp the pieces to it but I have found that the sandwich method is better all round.

If you really want to cut down on jig building you can clamp the ends of the slats to the bench over the block but it won’t give you much control of the curve and ties up bench space.

Drilling holes in legs also seems to attract a lot of complexity. There are all kinds of shop-made devices for marking a centre line and drilling a hole. Mirrors, spirit level jigs and lasers all come out to solve the problem: how do you drill at a correct and consistent angle?

This is the simplest method I can find. I put a leg on the two joiner’s saddles I used for planing and scraping earlier and clamp them down. Then I mark the centreline by the extremely complicated method of using a right angle block of wood with some pencil graphite on it. This leaves me with a neat line along the length of the leg. Given that my bench top is flat I can then use this as a reference surface to judge whether I’m drilling straight. A square on the bench takes care of the angle.

Simple…

The second set of holes in each leg must be at a specific angle to the first. Loosen the clamps or holdfasts, insert a dowel or stretcher, slide up a parallel sided block with a bevel gauge on it, clamp it all back down. Mark the centreline and drill. Harder to explain than to do!

Just the bevel gauge. The chair is made in England.

It’s not really a jig but the chair stick is worth mentioning. I build mine rather robustly from the same section stock as the legs. This means that when I lay a leg next to the stick flat on the bench I can put a square across both to mark all of the joinery.

Not essential – you might not think it’s worth making for your first chair – but it’s definitely worth it if you plan to build more.

Akin to the chair stick is the bevel board. I put all of the angles needed for each chair on it. Given that the geometry of chairs is fairly well established you might never need to make more than one.

Not for this chair! This is for a bench I built last year but you get the idea – mark the angles on a piece of wood and then you can quickly reset or check your bevel gauge.

The Bodgers’ Anathema

The Bodgers’ Anathema

No lathes were harmed in the making of this chair.

I started this series of blog posts as an article for F&C magazine but by the time I was halfway through it two things had happened: it was more than double the word count for project articles and the editor had moved on! Rather than chop it down I’ve chosen to publish it here so that none of the detail is lost. I’ll be posting weekly as I write up each stage.

Chairmakers’ workshops are full of specialist tools: froes, shavehorses, drawknives and spindle lathes. They’re a lot of fun and worth learning to use if you want to build a lot of chairs. Finding straight, clear, green wood presents another hurdle (sorry) to the prospective bodger. But for the urban woodworker labouring in a cramped workshop without a ready supply of freshly cut ash and with just a few basic woodworking tools there are alternatives. Ladder back, or post and rung, chairs can be built at the joiner’s bench from material available at most decent timber yards. You don’t get to sit down as much and it may take a little longer but the results can be indistinguishable from traditionally made chairs or as different as your imagination allows.

Over the next few weeks I’m going to look at ways to build ladder back chairs using a small tool kit and as few jigs as possible. It’s not the way I learned to build chairs but it may make getting into my second favourite form of woodwork a bit easier (in answer to the obvious question: boats) .

I’m not suggesting that this is the right way, the easiest way, the quickest way or the most enjoyable way. But it is a way that you might be able to start tomorrow without a big outlay.

Timber

Finding the straight grain in chestnut

You’re going to need to bend wood if you’re building ladderback chairs and in the absence of green wood the next best thing for steaming is air-dried timber, though the chair made in this series was built entirely from kiln-dried stock. The traditional timbers, ash, oak and chestnut, all work well but more important than species are straight grain and lack of knots. Given that you’re not going to be splitting the timber your choice is wider than that of traditional chair makers. A straight, clear board of English cherry is an enticing prospect. You don’t see many cherry chairs on this side of the pond. Walnut, a diffuse porous timber not readily given to convenient splitting, also makes a striking chair.

Ladder backs are more tolerant of dry wood than some of their Windsor cousins. Gentle sweeps in the back posts rather than the tight curves of a sack back chair will make your bends easier, require less kit and be less prone to failure.

The project begins at the timber yard. Find one that will let you look through the boards available and choose the straightest, clearest piece of hardwood you can find. I have had a lot of success bending force dried timber and once managed to get a curved stem for a canoe out of a piece of kiln dried Western Red Cedar with nothing more than a towel and a steam iron,  but not without a few breakages. Find a timber yard that processes its own boards from log to plank and ask to pick out a stick before it gets to the kiln.

The natural curves of the plank offer themselves to the back posts but then how do you round them?

When selecting a board don’t focus exclusively on how straight the grain is on the face but also look at the edge. If there’s more than an annular ring of runout per inch keep looking. There’s a decent board in there somewhere.

Keep it as long as you can for as long as you can. It’s tempting to cut down a long board to get it into the back of your car but if logistics allow don’t cross cut it until you’ve got it back to the ‘shop and can plan your posts, rungs and slats around the shakes and small knots in the board. It’s worth taking your chair stick with you if you’ve already made one. More on this later…

I’m using Chestnut for this chair. It looks a lot like oak but without the medullary rays or cats paws. There’s very little sap wood on a board, the grain is similar to oak and works a little easier. I prefer working it to dry ash but it’s quite a bit softer and it’s easy to put dents in. I spent some time steaming a few out. I got most of the chair out of one board 1800x400x42mm. You could do it from less; I was working around some knots. It wasn’t the most efficient way to work. Ideally I’d have bought one board at 42mm for the posts and another at 32 for the stretchers. If you can get a thick board and resaw it for the all of the slats it makes a lovely pattern. Here I settled for two and two.

Next week Tools and Jigs

 

Round and round…

Round and round…

On a chair leg’s journey from square to round (for the pedants: from cuboidal to cylindrical) there are several options for marking it out to get to octagonal. I’m a big fan of the spar gauge; they’re handy for any piece that tapers along its length. But for building the occasional chair a dedicated tool may be a bit much.

Here’s another way – one that I use a lot even though I have a couple of spar gauges in a draw.

  • Plane the future chair leg square to a hair shy of the final diameter.
  • On one the end of the workpiece mark the centre using the 45 degree fence on your combination square.  
  • Draw a circle (or just a quarter of a circle) with a pair of compasses.
  • Mark a tangent using your combination square.
  • Set your marking gauge to the point where the tangent meets the edge.
  • Use this setting to mark the length of the workpiece.
  • Set the leg in joiner’s saddles and plane until the marks just disappear
  • Draw a line on all eight sides.
  • Plane a few strokes until your piece is an even 16 sides. No need to gauge anything here – trust your eye and the length of the ever decreasing pencil lines.
  • Scrape with a concave scraper.
  • Sand in a saddle
  • Repeat until fade…

Or you could use a lathe.











Repeat until fade…